Let’s Talk About Trees....

As the nights begin to lengthen and the leaves turn brown and start to drop, autumn approaches. If you have spent the summer thinking that one of the trees in your garden is a worry, now is the time to do something about it.The following is a list of some standard tree surgery procedures that may be an option for that problem tree:

1. Crown reduction:
To reduce the trees crown whilst maintaining the shape of the tree. A 20-30% should not be overly aversive for the tree. This may be necessary when a tree has got too big for the garden and may be a way to ensure the tree and you can cohabit happily by making it more manageable for your property.

2. Crown thin:
Removing some secondary branch growth to create a less dense crown. This will enable more light to get through the tree.

3. Crown lifting:
Removing the lower branches of the crown to an agreed height (it should not be more than 1/3 than the trees height). This will let more light in and give better access around the tree

4. Crown cleaning:
The removal of dead or diseased branches from the crown. Also any branches that are touching and crossing over. Where the branches rub against each other further exposes the tree to disease. Any diseased branches threaten the health of the tree. Dead wood is vulnerable to falling from the tree causing injury. However, dead wood is a valuable haven for wildlife.

5. Pollarding:
This is an ancient technique originally used to create poles for firewood. It involves cutting back the branches to “pollard heads” and the tree will then put on a lot of growth and after 4-5 years the poles have appeared. Perfect size for cutting into logs and putting on the fire. Not necessarily needed for garden trees. The tree will often respond with lots of growth around the rest of the stem as well – this is called epicormic growth. This is the trees response to the stress of this process.

6. Coppicing:
Another ancient technique for creating firewood, this time involving cutting the deciduous tree down to the ground. The tree will the coppice from the stump and put on lots of new growth, which can be then harvested for firewood at a later date (depending on the tree). Again this technique is not necessary for garden trees. Once a tree has been coppiced (or pollarded) it should not be then left for too long as the tree can become weak where the trees have got too big for the stump.

7. Felling:
Removing the tree by in one piece. Generally with a chain saw.

8. Sectional dismantle:
Where there is not enough room or it is not safe to fell the tree, it can be removed by stripping the branches individually and then reducing the stem in pieces.

9. Stump grinding:
If the area is needed for another purpose or the removed tree is deciduous and you do not wish it to be coppiced then it may be necessary to grind out the stump with a machine specifically designed for this purpose. Conifers (evergreens) will not grow back once cut down and may not need the stumps ground out. The process could be avoided by burring round the edges of the deciduous stump to reduce the chance of coppicing. If any growth appears they can be quickly be removed with secateurs or a quick snap and eventually the tree will stop coppicing. This may save a lot of time and money.

Generally if you are happy to share your life with the trees but you feel that they are becoming unmanageable for the size of your garden or you need more light there, then a crown reduction, thinning, cleaning and raising may be the answer for you. It will certainly be the least aversive process for the tree, unless you just leave them be!

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