NOV 11 - Croatia - Sail to the Islands

Croatia is fringed with over 1000 islands, an amazing sight, especially from the air - lush emerald green, long, thin or perfectly circular, bordered by white cliffs and beaches, crisscrossed by tiny ribbons of road that seem to lead to nowhere. One could spend a week or more sailing through this romantic seascape but stay in one of the glorious Dalmatian resorts and you can cruise for a day on a nostalgic galleon, dropping anchor here and there to explore a few of these offshore gems.

Mljet in the south is wild and unspoilt, two thirds of the island covered in forest. The name means ‘honey isle’ and some claim this is where the nymph Calypso kept Ulysses spellbound for seven years. A few fishing villages are sprinkled along the shore while part of the island is protected by a National Park. There are two lovely saltwater lakes, shimmering turquoise and blue, and shaded trails fragrant with pines. Also accessed from Dubrovnik is the Elaphite archipelago, a haven of pine forests and olive groves. Only three of the islands are inhabited, including Lopud, famous for sands, rare in Dalmatia, and Kolocep, barely 300 residents but claiming seven pre- Romanesque churches.

Slightly further out into the Adriatic, Vis is the last inhabited Croatian island before Italy, with mountains rising to nearly 2000 feet and vineyards spreading in fertile valleys. Set in central Dalmatia, Vis boasts some of the best wine in the country, such as the red Plava and the honey-coloured Vugava, excellent with freshlycaught fish or lobster. The island has two small townships, Vis, where a medley of architecture reflects a turbulent past and Komiza, where boats Croatia is fringed with over 1000 islands, an amazing sight, especially from the air - lush emerald green, long, thin or perfectly circular, bordered by white cliffs and beaches, crisscrossed by tiny ribbons of road that seem to lead to nowhere. One could spend a week or more sailing through this romantic seascape but stay in one of the glorious Dalmatian resorts and you can cruise for a day on a nostalgic galleon, dropping anchor here and there to explore a few of these offshore gems. Head for the romantic Blue Lagoon on nearby Bisevo.

Of course, you could spend a whole day sailing through this enchanting maze without landing at all, gazing at dolphins pirouetting in the waves and rugged mountains towering on the mainland, but when the boat approaches Hvar, even the most jaded traveller is keen to explore.

Havr greets you with the fairytale town of Jelsa, all donkey and cycle rides, fishing nets drying in the alleyways, rose gardens, sunflowers, waterside restaurants and pastel-hued Venetian palaces dipping their toes in the sea. The fragrance of lavender lingers on the square and now and then a whiff of Croatian folklore echoes under the parasols. It’s well worth leaving the crowds to wander through the lanes for a glimpse of local life and to the chapel on the hillock for the breath-taking panorama.

From the resort of Baska Voda, it’s just under two hours to Hvar but the return trip includes a stop on Brac, the largest island in central Dalmatia, world famous for the local stone used to build the White House in Washington. Bol is a pretty little town with red roofs and white walls nestling around the harbour. It’s a couple of miles to the beach, by land train or on foot, along a shaded promenade where souvenir stalls sell lace and Brac stone turned into clocks or candle holders. Finally you reach the long broad spit of the Golden Cape, jutting out into the sea, a favourite spot for windsurfers and sun worshippers. The pebbles are as white as the stone and the water is beautifully clear but in the distance the galleon beckons, ready to conclude the cruise in time for a perfect Adriatic sunset.

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